Kids Surf Lesson: Sandbars

This past month, Venice has been extra fun, from the jetty to the pier, the waves have been awesome. Even Zuma and Will Rogers beaches have been super playful lately (they are worth the drive!)

This week, as part of your practice notes we’re going to break down why the surf has been so good lately. 

It all comes down to one word: Sandbars.

What’s a Sandbar?

A sandbar is like a big, underwater sand hill (kind of like the berm at Venice). When waves roll in and hit a sandbar, they slow down and curl, making awesome rideable waves. Without sandbars, waves just flop onto the shore and aren’t very fun. Thus the shore pound we see sometimes. 

Example of sandbar: SEE ABOVE

Here’s a quick peek at the science behind their formation:

If you don't read the article please watch the video, it is super cool! 

🔗 How sandbars make waves better — SurferToday

🔗 Watch sandbars form — YouTube

Thanks to big winter storms in January, Venice Beach got a ton of sand moved around. Now, there are neat sandbars that make the waves peel nicely. That means longer rides, more fun corners, and waves that are easier to catch. 

Why Waves Break Nicely

It’s all about the shape under the water, called bathymetry. When waves move from deep to shallow water over a sandbar, they slow down, lift up, and curl into rideable shapes. That’s why the waves are so much fun right now!

Surf While It Lasts!

Sandbars don’t stay the same forever. Storms, tides, and wind can change them. But right now, Venice, Zuma, and Will Rogers have perfect waves.  Morning winds and higher tides have been the best for these new sandbars, around 3.2 ft tide seems perfect!

Go Surf!